Keats described St Cross as: ‘a very interesting old place, both for its gothic tower and alms-square, and for the appropriation of its rich rents to a relation of the Bishop of Winchester’ – a reference to a contemporary corruption scandal which was one of the themes of Anthony Trollope’s novel The Warden 35 years later.
The mellow Medieval buildings of the Hospital of St Cross enjoy an idyllic meadow landscape setting. Founded in 1136, the hospital is the country’s oldest charitable institution and still functions as an almshouse. Those arriving on foot may ask for the Wayfarer’s Dole, bread and ale which has been given to travellers since the almshouse was founded. The Hospital serves refreshments in the summer months, and The Bell Inn on St Cross Road is the nearest pub. Keats’ final instruction is: ‘pass across St Cross meadows till you come to the most beautifully clear river’. He did not elaborate further and we do not know his return route.
To return to the city you could retrace your footsteps through the water meadows or, if you prefer a paved route, walk along Back Street, St Faith’s Road, Kingsgate Road and Kingsgate Street. St Cross Road is also paved and buses are available.
There is some evidence that Keats may have returned via St Catherine’s Hill and the Itchen Navigation. He said: ‘there is on one side of the city a dry chalky down where the air is worth sixpence a pint’, a description which would fit this area.
